Posted by Igore on April 19, 04 at 15:21:14:
In Reply to: Re: OT: Chainsaw purchase posted by Ben on April 19, 04 at 08:11:06:
I've been using chain saws since I was 13 and the saws weighed about 35 lbs. I probably have picked up more than my share of bad habits over the years.
These are not for amatures. Bucking trees on the ground is actually harder work than felling them. Couple of things to keep in mind.
1. A good long (8+feet) length of 1 1/2" pipe works great for prying up the tree after it has pinched your chain and you can't get the saw out.
2. The best technique for a downed tree is to pry it up and put a log or something under the middle to act as a fulcrum. If you were smart, you put the log down before you dropped the tree on it. Have a partner sit on one end so the other is up in the air. Cut that end off. After a few lengths, switch ends with your partner to keep the log sort of balanced with the end being cut up in the air. This saves a lot on chains by keeping them up off the ground.
3. Don't forget to put oil in the gas or the saw won't last long at all. Don't forget to fill the bar oil tank too with real bar oil, not used motor oil. Real bar oil is real stringy and sticks to the chain better. Grease the nose if you have a roller nose.
4. We all start the saw with a drop start but it isn't a real good practice. Put the saw on a stump or something flat and cuttable. Hold it down, pull the cord.
5. Don't start the saw on your pickup bed or tailgate, when it bucks the metal floor will dull the chain.
6. Wear the safety stuff, especially earmuffs or plugs and heavy gloves. The hard hat and face shield are good ideas too. Real loggers wear heavy leather chaps to make the saw hesitate a critical second so they can get off the throttle and let go of the chain brake before it cuts their leg off.
For my preferences, I have an old Homelite that I use for felling and light jobs. The main advantage is that it is light. For bucking work I like a Johnsrud because it has very good vibration damping and is relatively quiet.
If you've never done this before and don't know someone who has and can teach you, better off to let someone who knows what they are doing do this for you. Have whoever is dropping the tree cut it into lengths for you and leave them for you to pick up.
Don't forget that if you cut the wood, you have to split it too. Not everyone has a hydraulic splitter on their tractor and some species like Elm split like a piece of rope. A hydraulic splitter will cut fingers off too faster than you can say "Ow!".
Let's be careful out there.
: Bought my HomeLite used in the 80's and have been using it every season since. Came with a case and that was a rare find back then.
: It's a 16 inch with end sprocket/bearing. Modified the whole thing.
: NEVER touch wood that has been on the ground, else will be resharpening the blade often. Dirt.
: Used hand file for years till saw kit for Dremel and now sharpen with power Dremel when 110VAC available.
: Grease every thing before puttting away so next time, just start it and go.
: Buy chain oil by gallon jug.
: Sawzall great for cutting roots and stuff where dirt would dull chain saw in seconds.
: Tore my right shoulder up last season and why couldn't do the Sub's fuel pump. Wouldn't start so did a bit harder and longer pull... Had the can of ether right next to me and that last pull just to see can do it...
: Assume you know HOW2 handle a chain saw. Like never have the bar in line with your face, nor face too close, etc. Hearing protection and face protection. If in question, don't...