Posted by Ben on January 28, 03 at 09:20:16:
In Reply to: Re: '02 purchase and towing advice posted by AJ on January 28, 03 at 04:35:20:
The listed "max trailer" weight of any vehicle is meaningless, because it's based on a "curb" tow vehicle. That is a base, bone stock truck with one 150lb driver.
Any options, subtracts it's weight from the listed "max trailer" weight. Meaning AC system, radio/stereo, rear heater/AC, 2nd & 3rd row seats, auto tranny, 4x4, roof rack, power mirrors, big block, etc all has it's weight subtracted from the "max trailer" weight. Also a ditto for additional people and cargo.
I have NEVER seen a "bone stock" Suburban.
Best way to figure your actual "max trailer" weight is to take the rig fully loaded as you would for towing trip and have it weighed, then subtract that from the GCWR. Or take the Sub's GVWR and subtract it from the GCWR.
Here's how I figure mine (1996, GMC Sub K3500/7.5L/4.1 gears. 6K lb curb. 8.6K lb GVWR. 16K lb GCWR. 4.5K lb Fr axle. 6K lb Rr axle. 10K lb max trailer weight (GM's number).
16,000 minus 8,600 = 7,400 lb max trailer weight I should tow...NOT...the 10,000 lb max trailer weight listed in the brochures.
Actually tow a 8.5K lb boat/trailer (sold it). Above my own recommended forumla, but have synthetics in all and can live with reduced margin (my calculated risk factor). Main reason is that towing a boat/trailer is different than towing a TT. #1 is frontal area and the loading that presents.